Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 15:37:33 -1000 From: Patrick Rorie (email@example.com> Subject: Kalalau Service Trip - Day 2
It got chilly early Saturday morning and I woke up as a result. Pulled my mummy liner over me and fell asleep again. A few hours later, at 6:30 a.m., woke up to start the day and emerged from my tent at approx. 7 a.m. For the next hour or so I shaved, brushed teeth, took a cold shower (descended the 15 rock steps to Ho'ole'a Falls) and applied sunscreen.
Gentle breezes, lots of blue sky and sunshine made for an exquisite day. Because of the State's decision to ban Zodiac boats from landing on Kalalau Beach, there weren't that many people around (except, of course, the naked man).
From 8:30 a.m. to 11 a.m. Doug, Ralph and I worked hard in the territory between the falls and 50 yards to the east of the main DLNR building (after all, this was a service trip) watering young kukui, kou, and milo trees as well as weeding the area around them. Four foot tall metal fences encompassed many of the trees protecting them from hungry goats while small rocks encircled the others, several of which fell prey to the hoofed animals. Back and forth we went from Ho'ole'a filling and then lugging 5 gallon containers to each of the woody plants. Doug's back acted up on him. Nevertheless, he continued laboring.
At 11:06 a.m. Ralph and I began walking west along the coast toward Honopu Valley. I pointed out the knee deep fresh water leading to the sea cave I had visited the day before and the two of us went inside to check it out. Ralph discovered a dark ally and we ventured a short distance into it. On the way out, we agreed to bring flashlights the next time. He and I completed the stroll at the shore break near a huge lofty boulder where swimming was the only viable means of continuing down the coast and retraced our steps after conversing with a young couple.
Following lunch at approx. 12:40 p.m., Reuben, Doug, Ralph and I headed for Kalalau Valley, described by some as "The Garden of Eden". The four of us proceeded straight along the 2 mile Kalalau Valley Trail upon arriving at the junction. We climbed gradually past a couple of eroded hills on the right in between a forest of hau tangles and exotic species. Large quantities of Lantana existed in the lower part of the valley as well. Eventually, rock terraces (or Lo'i) used by ancient Hawaiians to grow taro were observed above and below the footpath. Reuben gave us a history lesson as our foursome moved methodically up the valley.
We broke out into a clearing near some boulders, one of which was called "Smoke" rock (where hippies formerly smoked pakalolo). The spot had an incredible view of the east wall of Kalalau Valley with its sheer fluted cliffs (the one on postcards and in calendars). Likewise for the west wall which featured "Box" canyon, giant rock towers (turrets), and massive Kanakou peak. The steep vertical wall in the back of the valley was also visible.
Pressing on, Reuben, Doug, Ralph, and I entered the woods again, forded a tributary of Kalalua Stream and, later, the stream itself. Finally, our foresome reached an area below two small cascading waterfalls and sat down on some rock slabs above Big Pool (elev. 900 ft). Ralph and I took a cool dip and enjoyed some jacuzzi action a short distance downstream.
Next, all of us doubled back to an indistinct junction not far from Big Pool where Reuben led us up a side trail toward the east wall. We passed Mike's Garden, an outlaw (former hippies who camp/live illegally in Kalalau Valley) garden, and endured a steep climb in route to Waimakemake Falls (elev. 1,500 ft and a wonderful 150 foot precipitous cascade).
We surprised three goats, rounded up some rubbish (service trip, remember?!) and inspected Mike's Garden on the way down to the main footpath. Avacados, bananas, papayas, a pineapple and squash were among the crops cultivating in the garden.
Before exiting the valley, Reuben, Doug, Ralph and I collected more garbage (it smelled rancid) including a 12 ft by ? ft tent and made a side trip to Ginger Pool where an attractive young girl was reading a book. We paused briefly at one of the eroded hills, taking pleasure in the marvelous view of the sun shining brightly on the dark blue Pacific Ocean with green flora in the foreground.
Our foursome returned to Kalalau Beach at 5 p.m. I walked out to the front of the beach near the shore break to relish the classic mountain vista. The dagger shaped rock towers were such a delight to my eyes! Bathed in Ho'ole'a and relaxed until dinner.
A few minutes after 7 p.m. preparations for the evening meal commenced on the porch of the DLNR structure. Once again, puffy clouds obstructed the sunset. After dinner, Reuben studied information from ON THE NA PALI COAST by Kathy Valier, Doug and Ralph read novels and I made an entry into my journal.
A light rain fell as Doug, Ralph and I departed Reuben's company (he slept on the porch on a cot) one at a time between 9 and 10 p.m. I retired for the night at 10:30 p.m.
Next: Day 3 - A sojourn to isolated Honopu Beach and lovely Outlaw Pools