Problem Scenarios: Claims Analysis

 

Situation Feature: Pros (+) or Cons (-) of feature:
Vital Signs Monitoring Device

Pros:

+ Potentially a life saving solution.
+ A climber is able to control ascent and descent through accurate accurate bio-feedback readings of critical vital signs.
+ The device is light and compact, an important consideration for extreme climbers carrying equipment at high elevations.
+ The device allows other members in a climbing party to assess the physiological state of a climber and to take informed decisions based on reliable, objective data.

 

Cons:

- Yet another piece of gear!
- Need to wear sensors on several part of the body
- Might be difficult to read in severe weather conditions
- Assume a minimum understanding of what vital signs are.
- Need to carry spare AA2 batteries to ensure constant monitoring

Auditory & Vibratory Alarms

 

Pros:

+ Immediate warning to climbers
+ Difficult to ignore or turn off
+ Other climbers in the climber proximity can hear it
+ Complement each other in case one cannot be perceived by the climber

Cons:

- Annoying to climbers especially if they are already affected by AMS
- System might get corrupted and relay inaccurate data
- Difficult to turn off when necessary (the unit is reading inaccurate data).

 

FM Walkie-Talkie Radio


Pros
:

+ Walkie talkies ar cheap
+ Walkie talkies are a one-time cost
+ Walkie talkies are simple to operate
+ Walkie talkies are small & light devices
+ Walkie talkies operate on small batteries
+ Walkie talkies do not require a license to operate
+ A climbing party members can stay in touch with each others at all time
+ Alert to support and rescue facilities can be sent immediately after an accident
+ Walkie talkies are often an International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation requirement
+ Some of the latest version include built-in AM/FM radios, barometers, altimeters and digital compasses.
+ One version even includes a weather broadcast that would warn people of possible storms or bad weather.

 

Cons:

-
Help is always hours away at a minimum
- Often help cannot reach the scene of an incident
- They do not by themselves provide medical assistance
- Walkie-Talkie have a limited range (3 Km / 2 miles)
- You need to change channel if someone else is using the same one
- Terrain like deep gullies and cliffs can affect the clarity of the frequency


Climbing without Oxygen

 

Pros:

+ A climber performance and overall condition relies essentially on a slow but essential acclimatization process.
+ Without oxygen extreme climbing is really properly define the physiological height of a mountain remains equal to its height.
+ AMS, HACE and HAPE symptoms are greatly clarified and facilitated as no mitigating factors for interpretation of a climber health condition can a priori exist.
+ Failure to acclimatize automatically ensures that an unfit climber will not be able to climb much further that his current physiological state allows

 

Cons:

- Climbers cannot attempts to climb mountains they may have been able to climb with the use of supplemental oxygen.
- Statistically, research shows that extreme climbers using O2 to descend are about one-third as likely to die as those who do not.

but:

+ Acclimatization together with the use of a vital signs monitoring device such as EMACS should defeat that last claim.