There was a time in my life when I used to be crazy about body surfing. I was fourteen years old at that time. The only reason why me and my friends were crazy about body surfing was because we couldn't afford to buy a body board or a surfboard. There is only a few good body surfing spots since all the surfers and bodyboarders dominate at all the good spots. We would go to the east side of the Oahu like Makapu'u or chambers at Sandy beach since surfers cannot ride shore breaks from fear of breaking their expensive boards or because they're not allowed to. If we couldn't go to the east side, we would go to point panic and tolerate the smell of diesel in the water which would often make me sick. My ultimate goal was to catch that impossible big wave and bra g to all my friends about it. I would always try to stay on the outside to catch the biggest wave possible. Even if I wasn't very good at it, I always tried hard and stayed in shape.

One day, there was a storm approaching from the east and the surf was breaking six to eight feet. Storm swells are usually choppy and disorganized. On top of that, the strong winds adds to the unfavorable conditions. This was the first time that I was tak ing on waves that size. I had that invincible attitude that adolescents often have. I thought I could take on anything. It was a stormy day but not cold and the clouds were hanging low as if I could reach up and touch it and it wasn't raining. The mist fr om the pounding waves looked like a fog drifting up the cliff toward the road. It looked like a scene from a fantasy movie. I was with my friends Pete and Makoto. We were excited and completely oblivious of what was about to happen.

We put our fins on and jumped in expecting an awesome day surfing. I started swimming out and when the waves came I dove under trying to go under the wave like I usually do but this time it was different. It turns out that the water was about four feet de ep. I was lying flat on my face on the sand under water. There was a force of water on my back holding me down until I was out of air. Soon the force of water ceased so I pushed off the sand and swam to the top for a breath of much needed air. The water b ecame much deeper since the wave came in and swimming to the top seemed like forever. When I reached the top I took a deep breath expecting air and instead I got a lung full of foam which was floating on the water. Waves stirring up foam is common on big days. I started coughing and choking unable to satisfy my need for air. Then I looked up and saw another wave approaching. Without a full breath of air I was forced to dive under to avoid being pounded. I was lying on the bottom of the ocean again and I r an out of air even sooner. I swam to the top and this time I almost passed out. The pain in my chest almost drove me to take a breath full of ocean water. I had to decide if I should turn back. Just when I was assessing the situation, another wave was app roaching and I was forced to dive under once again. This time the wave was smaller and I was able to swim to the top more quickly than before. I soon caught my breath and since the water was deeper I was able to dive under the next wave without being pinn ed under water on the sand. I was still deciding if I should turn back to spare my life. Then I wondered what was going on with Pete and Makoto. I looked around and I saw them about twenty five yards ahead of me. They also made it past the breaks. Then I decided that I was not going to turn back. It was a matter of pride. I didn't want them to think I couldn't handle it. I swam up to them and saw that they were suffering as much as I was. We were far out almost out of the bay and we could feel a current p ushing us away toward the reef near Makapu'u point. We had to continuously swim in the opposite direction expending precious energy to avoid drifting out into the open ocean. Then for some crazy reason, I decided to make an attempt to catch a wave. My stu bbornness and pride was my driving force. I wanted to show off to Pete and Makoto. I wanted them to be my witnesses when I catch the biggest wave any of us ever caught. I positioned my self carefully using my best judgment since I knew that being in the w rong position could mean getting hurt. I timed a wave perfectly and I paddled as hard as I could but instead of sliding down the wave I was air born free falling. I was unable to build enough speed to catch the wave correctly. Surfers call it "going over the falls" which is an embarrassing blunder. I fell in the water in an awkward position and began rolling in the water not knowing which was is up. Surfers call this the "spin cycle", an appropriate name. When the spin cycle was over, my stomach was fille d several gulps of ocean water and my nose was also fill with as much water as it could hold. The next white water break carried me in and dropped on the shore as if the ocean was trying to tell me to stay out. My two friends had already made it to shore and they had the same look on their face as I did, exhausted and terrified. We looked as if we had just swam for our lives several miles and landed on a deserted island. We just laid there on the shore for a while catching our breath.

I look back and I wonder how I made it out alive. To say that I was lucky is an under statement. I believe that my life was spared and I was given a second chance by the ocean. If there is a god, maybe he knew that I truly loved the ocean and I deserved a another chance. I learned a valuable lesson that day. I realized that human beings are just a little worthless drop in the ocean. The awesome power of the ocean cannot be utilized by humans as they wish. It is only possible if the ocean allow humans to d o so. Humans must live by the rules set by nature. I am thankful for that humbling experience and for a second chance at life.

I still surf today. I out grew bodysurfing and now I surf on a surf board since I can afford it. I will probably surf for the rest of my life. After every surf session I pick up rubbish that people leave behind on the beach. This is my way of saying thank you oh mighty ocean for allowing me to surf your waves.