October 1997

Q. Could you please answer two questions for me. I have a 45 gallon saltwater tank with Amiracle Wet Dry and Marineland Canister filter. I also have a protein skimmer. First my live rock is a nice shade of purple and has some mushroom anenomes growing off it. It seems to be slowly dying. All my levels are low and I change 8 gallons of water every two weeks. The fish are fine?? What could be wrong? Secondly, I get algae, looks like hair, growing on the substrate on the bottom and some of the dead corals. This algae seems to grow like mad for 2-3 weeks then die off. Then it starts again 1-2 months later. Any ideas?? Rich Williams, via the Internet Rich I would love to answer your questions and help you out with your problems but you have not given much information to go on so I can only offer you my "guesses" as to what may be the problem. I am not sure what you are referring to when you say "it is dying" do you mean the coralline algae, the mushroom anemones or the life on the rock? I will assume you are talking about the coralline algae. Coralline algae rely on a number of factors to grow well. Number one is water chemistry, specifically calcium, alkalinity and pH. Since you did not provide me with any of this information I can only speculate as to what may be happening. I suggest checking these levels, particularly the alkalinity, which should be above 8 dKH and preferably closer to 12 dKH. Unless coralline algae have sufficient calcium, bicarbonates and carbonates in the system to calcify they will not do well. Other factors include high phosphates that impede the calcification process in coralline algae. Phosphates should be lower than 0.2 ppm. Strontium chloride additions also appear beneficial for coralline algae growth. There are many different species of coralline algae, some are found in shaded areas while others thrive on high light levels. However, since you provide no information about your lighting system I can not advise you if your lighting is too bright or too dim for the coralline to do well. Your experiences with hair algae indicate that there is a slow build- up of nutrients in the system. The algae will proliferate when these levels have increased to a certain point. Once they have lowered the nutrient level enough the algae starve and die-off. The nutrients then accumulate again and the cycle repeats itself. Check your top-off water and the water you use to make your seawater with. Make sure this water is low in phosphate and nitrate. Examine how much you feed your animals, make sure you are not overfeeding the tank. I would also suggest removing the biomedia from your trickle filter, you don't need it and it only contributes nitrates to your system. At the same time I would investigate how efficient your protein skimmer is and if you can't upgrade it to a more efficient model. Regular readers of this column already know this but I will repeat it once again; when writing to me with problems I need as much information as possible about the system and how you maintain it. Without this information I am left to second guess what the reader means and what may be causing their problems. Q. I have a 55 gal. salt water reef tank and run a Whisper wet-dry filter and an undergravel filter, a wave maker with two Maxi-Jet l000 power heads, two 110 VHO watt lights, one white, one blue (bulbs are one month old) and the temperature is 75 oF. I add calcium, iodine, strontium & invertebrate smorgasbord weekly as designated on bottles. I do monthly 10% to 15% water changes and add Biozyme and Marine Buffer at that time. In the tank is approximately two inches of crushed coral, live rock, one Sebae anemone, one mystery anemone, three types of mushroom, a small colony of yellow button polyp, one plate coral, I believe a gorgonian and another type of soft coral and two rapidly decreasing star polyp rocks (due to hair algae). I also have one Maroon clown, one mandarin fish, one convict goby and a few turbo snails. I tested my water as of today, my pH was 8.4 - 8.6, 0 nitrate, 0 nitrite, 0.25 ppm ammonia possibly due to a fish death. By the time you get this I will have done a water change and things should be back to normal. My tank has been set up for three years, my water tests perfect 99% of the time. Now for my questions: I have a problem with my corals not retaining their color - almost everything turns to eraser pink. I was told to get strong lighting hence the VHO, still no change. I have had the lighting system one year. Is there something I'm not adding or doing or am I destined to have a pink tank? Next, hair, red slime and green algae, how do I get a handle on it? It's been the death of the star polyps and nearly a bubble coral. I have found one thing to work but am unsure if it is safe for continued use. The phosphate filter along with red and hair algae additive work wonders. The first time I used it with no visible effects on my coral. I'm curious, if once the algae is gone can I still use the sponge filter regularly to keep phosphates low? I tried sea urchins but they don't seem to live long & turbo snails but somebody ends up dining on them. I'm on a limited budget but anything you can suggest would be appreciated. Kelly Hickman via the Internet Wow, lots to discuss in this letter. To put it in a nutshell this system is overloaded with respect to nutrients. You have a trickle filter that adds nitrates to the system. You have an undergravel filter with two inches of crushed coral that I am sure you have not gravel washed for some time. This also adds nitrates and probably harbours a significant amount of detritus and phosphate. You don't use a protein skimmer, and you don't mention if you use activated carbon. You add liquid invertebrate foods and other additives such as Biozyme that you don't really need. You don't mention it but I assume you are using tapwater for top-offs and for making your seawater? So the way I see it, you are adding lots of nutrients but aside from a monthly water change you are not exporting any. That is why you have seen an improvement with the phosphate sponge; you have excess nutrients, such as phosphate in your system. It does not harm the system to use the phosphate sponge continuously. However, you should stop and think a moment. What is causing these algae to proliferate in the first place? If you take aspirin for a headach but it continues to return, wouldn't you want to address the cause of the headaches instead of just dealing with the symptom? The same applies to your tank. You need to deal with the reasons for the algae growth. The first thing I would recommend you do is get an efficient protein skimmer that can turn over the entire volume of your aquarium at least twice an hour. I would then remove the biomedia from your trickle filter. The undergravel filter is a bit more problematical. You should gravel wash the system at least once a week to begin with to keep detritus from accumulating in it. Later you could probably get away with doing it once a month or so when you do your water change. Better yet I would remove the whole thing if you can. Stop using the liquid invertebrate food, the corals you have probably don't need it and it only adds to the nutrient load in the system. I would also stop using the Biozyme, you shouldn't need it. I would switch over to using calcium hydroxide solution to maintain your calcium and alkalinity levels instead of the calcium and buffer combo you are using now. It will also help to precipitate phosphate from the water. You should be measuring your calcium, pH and alkalinity on a frequent basis. You only mentioned your pH level which makes me wonder what the calcium and alkalinity are; low I am willing to bet. Finally I would look at your freshwater source. Does it contain phosphate? nitrate? iron? silicate? These are all potential nutrient sources for algal growth. You may need to switch to using reverse osmosis or deionization units to ensure nutrient free freshwater. If you do all these things then chances are you will see a rapid improvement in your system. By using additional algae grazers such as small hermit crabs and tangs, you will prevent the algae from spreading throughout your system again. Once you have your water quality and the undesirable algae under control, you will most likely see an improvement in your coral colours. I would also examine the iodide supplement you are using. Does it adequately replenish the iodide in your system with the dosage it recommends? One way to ascertain this would be to get an iodide test kit and see what the levels in your tank are.