May 1997

In reading through the letters and emails that are forwarded to me each month I often wish that I could receive more information on the systems being discussed. Since I cannot ask you more questions, I think it would be best if I outlined some of the parameters I would like to know about your systems when you send me questions about problems you are having. Lets start with the tank itself. How big is the tank and what are its dimensions? How much total water is in the system including the filtration system? Where is the tank located? Is it close to open windows or doors? The lighting system is the next important area to consider. How many lights do you have? What type are they? What is the wattage, colour temperature and length? How often do you replace them? How far above the water are they located and is there a shield between the lights and the tank? Filtration is of course critical. What types of filters do you have? If you have a protein skimmer what size is it, how much water are you sending through it and with what type of pump? If you are using activated carbon, how much do you use, how often is it replaced and where is it located? If you have live rock, how much do you have, how is it arranged, how old is it? How did you setup and cycle your system? Additives are always a tricky thing to put your finger on. What products do you use, how much and how often do you add them? If you use calcium supplements how do you prepare them and how are they added? How you maintain your aquarium is also important. How often do you clean your filter system, the glass, the aquarium, and the prefilters? Do you do water changes if so how often and how much? What type of freshwater are you using and where does it come from? Water chemistry is a critical parameter. You should provide me with the following measurements: ammonia, nitrate, phosphate, pH (range), alkalinity, calcium, temperature (range), and specific gravity. Iodide and strontium levels are also useful to know but not critical. Finally what do you have in your tank? What types and how many fish, corals and other invertebrates do you have in there? How large are they and how close together are the corals? When were they added? One of the best ways to help yourself understand what may be happening in your aquarium is to keep a logbook. Each day write down anything you do to or observe in the tank. Record all your water quality test results. Often, when looking back in your logs you may be able to trace a change in your tank to something that happened or you did days, weeks to even months ago. Your logbook can be as simple as a notebook or you can use your computer to build a database or spreadsheet, you can even use one of the shareware or commercial aquarium data logging software packages now available. The Internet What's that you say? Not another story about the Internet?? I'm afraid so. Whether you have access to the Internet directly, through an Internet provider, or through an on-line service such as CompuServe or America On-line, do yourself a favor and explore some of the reef- related resources available on the World Wide Web. A number of hobbyists, businesses, public aquaria and professional aquarists have their own home pages where you can get information on system design, products, reef exhibits, reef aquaria, coral and fish identification, do-it-yourself projects ... the list is almost endless, as is the Web itself. To get you started you can access my aquarium link page at http://www2.hawaii.edu/~delbeek/aquarium.html. It will offer you a good start for your reef-related Web surfing. In addition there are newsgroups where you can find reef-related discussions, or post your own questions. Try rec.aquaria and sci.aquaria. These areas have currently undergone changes to better organize the thousands of messages that get posted each day into more specific categories. At best these areas are confusing to the novice, and still a little hostile to neophytes. On-line services such as America On-line (Keyword: Pets), Prodigy and CompuServe (Go Fishnet) offer message areas, files, weekly chats and monthly guest lectures on a variety of reef-related topics, and in my opinion offer the better choice for asking questions and getting useful answers. I have been a member of CompuServe's Fishnet forum for over 10 years, and America On-line's Pets Forum for 2 years. In my experience, of the two, CompuServe is the better choice for reef-related advice, quality of information available, quality of discussions and the level of expertise of its members. America On-line is easier to use for the novice, and has many excellent files on a variety of topics available for downloading. One thing that really bothers me about the AOL Pets Forum is that their chat rooms are shared by everything from cats to parrots. Nights are designated for certain topics but people often intrude on fish or reef discussions, this does not happen on Fishnet since it has its own chat rooms devoted only to fishy topics. Pests, Pests and Still More Pests! I recently received two letters, each describing a different pest or perceived pest, in reef aquaria i.e. dinoflagellates and flatworms (planaria). Flatworms come in many shapes and sizes. The ones we normally consider pests tend to be small, less than 5mm in length, dorso-ventrally flattened worm-like creatures. They can be brown, green or red, often with a white strip down the middle of the back. These animals feed on bacteria and coral slime and are thought to be relatively harmless. The problem comes when you get a population explosion in the tank and they begin to cover every available surface, including your corals. They become a real eyesore and can also severely cut back on the amount of light the corals receive. At this point you have three options: leave them alone and wait until they begin to disappear, which often happens; siphon them off the corals everyday until their numbers begin to decrease or; find a biological control. Biological controls are tricky because there is no guarantee that they will work and if they do work what will they eat once the flatworm population declines? Fish are the most effective biological controls for flatworms. Members of the genus Valenciennea (Sleeper Gobies) have been observed to control flatworms effectively but they tend to waste away in aquaria once the flatworms decrease in number. Wrasses are very interesting fish in that if there is something that occurs on a reef there is usually a wrasse that eats it. Both Macropharyngodon (Leopard wrasses) and Anampses wrasses are suspected to eat flatworms in aquaria. In the few cases where I have experienced flatworm outbreaks the populations eventually disappeared in about 6-8 weeks. Flatworms often appear in new aquaria with live rock, with new pieces of live rock added to an already established reef aquarium, and with new pieces of coral. This is why it is prudent to carefully inspect new arrivals for suspicious hitchhikers and to quarantine new pieces in a separate tank to make sure they are pest free. Often vigorously shaking the piece in a bucket of seawater is enough to dislodge flatworms. A more drastic procedure is to dip the live rock briefly in freshwater for 30-60 seconds causing them to drop off. Dinoflagellates can become a real pest in aquaria and have caused more than one hobbyist to completely tear down and sterilize their aquaria. This tiny, single-celled protozoan can multiply into large mats of brown, filamentous growths, often with air bubbles attached to rising filaments. When examined under the microscope they appear as very tiny spheres embedded in a gelatinous goo! There is no sure-fire way to rid an aquarium of this plague and often it is merely the shock of the change that causes them to disappear. Treatments have included raising the pH to 8.5 for several weeks, dropping the specific gravity to 1.016 rapidly and keeping it there for a few weeks, raising or lowering the temperature, using phosphate lowering compounds, and turning off the lights for a few days to a week. Sometimes a combination of the above will cause a positive result. Unfortunately there does not seem to be any organism that will eat these beasties either! As you can probably tell, many of the above options carry their own dangers for the other inhabitants of the tank but drastic times sometimes require drastic means, you may loose all your animals or you may be successful, the alternative is to do nothing and that will eventually lead to a very nice of display of dinoflagellates and little else. Till next month ... Aloha!